Vieques: playing Crusoe

For decades, the tiny island of Vieques, off Puerto Rico’s east coast, was known to outsiders — if at all — as a controversial US Navy base. But since the withdrawl of the military eleven years ago, Vieques’s gorgeous beaches and tranquil pace have attracted visitors in search of the “unspoiled.” Philip Sander finds out why

Back and fort

The Caribbean’s history of wars and colonisation has left an extraordinary legacy of military architecture, some of it nearly five centuries old. Recognised today as historic sites, these forts and naval bases are a reminder of the often bloody past that shaped our present