Guyana by the score | Destination

Guyana, on an island scale, is vast: 83,000 square miles of Atlantic coast, mighty rivers, savannahs and forests stretching to the horizon. It can be overwhelming for a first-time visitor — so we’ll help you narrow it down. Here are twenty key places, events, and things that capture the true spirit of “the land of many waters”

The Rupununi River is a wild playground at the heart of Guyana. Photo by Pete Oxford

Clearing the trail | Escape

Dominica’s Waitukubuli National Trail is the jewel in the Nature Isle’s ecotourism crown. 2017’s Hurricane Maria devastated the trail — along with the rest of Dominica — but now an unusual breed of “voluntourists” are helping restore it. Paul Crask meets two of them

The Boeri Lake Trail in the high montane forest of Dominica’s Morne Trois Pitons National Park is one of several iconic hiking routes now clear and recovering. Photo by Paul Crask

Havana hello | Destination

Caribbean Airlines’ newest destination is one of the region’s — and the world’s — most iconic cities. From music to revolutionary history, baroque architecture to pastel-hued classic cars, from the Malecón to the bar where mojitos were (supposedly) invented — welcome to Havana, now serviced by two direct flights from Port of Spain each week

São Luís do Maranhão — Brazil’s reggae city | Travellers’ tales

Founded in 1612 on Brazil’s Atlantic coast, the city of São Luís do Maranhão is a treasurehouse of historic achitecture, encrusted with ornate blue tiles, and has a long tradition of avant-garde poets. It’s also — as unlikely as it sounds — a hotbed of reggae music. David Katz pays a visit, to investigate how this city more than two thousand miles from Kingston has adopted reggae as its very own, with a new museum celebrating the cultural link