Stephen Derek: the globetrotter

Stephen Derek: An apprentice of the great George Bailey, Derek has taken Trinidad Carnival around the world

  • Stephen Derek at work in his mas camp. Photograph by Mark Lyndersay
  • Stephen Derek in the 1990s . Photograph by Mark Lyndersay

Stephen Derek, born 1952

Few of today’s bandleaders can claim to have mastered all the traditional
costume-design skills that thrived in Carnival’s post-war era. Generic bikini
costumes sprinkled with beads and sequins don’t call for wire-bending, papier
mâché moulding, cane work or carving. The complete masman has
become a rare figure; even more rare are designers who learned their craft
in the mas camp of a legend.

Stephen Derek was born in 1952 on Woodbrook’s Buller Street, not far from
George Bailey’s headquarters. For a boy with a passion for the mas, there
was no better place in the world to be. He was just 18 when his mentor died
in 1970, but Derek was a keen apprentice, taking in all that he could. “I
learned from the masters,” he says. And when he finally had the chance to
design his own band, D’ Midas Touch, in 1978, spectators who remembered
Bailey’s masquerade noted how deeply Derek’s work was influenced by the
late Sir George’s style.

Alongside men like Cito Velasquez and Albert Bailey, Derek is one of the
few remaining bridges to that extraordinary time. Some have criticised him
for not stepping out of Bailey’s long shadow. But Derek has always seen
his work as a continuation of an artistic tradition which could easily be
lost; every year his costumes provide in living colour a glimpse of the
glory that was Carnival in the 1960s.

Even more crucially, Derek has taken the art and the spirit
of Trinidad Carnival far beyond the island’s shores. Other bandleaders have
produced presentations for carnivals and festivals abroad, but none as assiduously
as Derek. Starting in 1990, when he designed a band called Exotic Dancers
for the Brooklyn and Boston carnivals (it won band of the year in both cities),
Derek has become a year-round masman, moving from one carnival to the next,
showcasing his work around the Caribbean and North America. His company,
D’ Midas International, has a base in every North American city with a
significant Caribbean presence, from Miami to Oakland; Derek may even be
better known in some of these communities than he is back at home. He created
costumes for the 1999 Miss Universe Pageant, held in Trinidad, and his designs
have appeared in at least one Hollywood movie. It’s all good business for
D’ Midas, which has embraced the challenge with true entrepreneurial spirit,
but for Derek these carnivals in New York and Toronto, Houston and Atlanta
are above all an opportunity to give the world a hint of what Trinidad Carnival
looks and feels like. And it’s reassuring to know that the crafts and techniques
Derek absorbed from George Bailey are now giving joy to people all over
the world.